VC-Backed And Derm-Endorsed Brand Symphonic M.D. Focuses On Reducing Irritation From Powerhouse Skincare Ingredients

Dermatologist and Yale School of Medicine professor David Leffell jokes that if he had a nickel for every patient that stops using retinol because they can’t tolerate it, he’d have retired long ago.

Interested in improving retinol tolerance to improve skin outcomes (not expedite his retirement), he was open to David Chernoff, chief medical officer at SetPoint Medical, former chief medical officer at Olly and board member at Intrinsic Capital Partners, when Chernoff told him about a brand being backed by Intrinsic, a venture capital and private equity firm investing in cannabidiol businesses, that employs CBD to decrease irritation from skincare products. Although Leffell has turned down countless chances to help commercialize skincare products, the potential for the brand, launching today as Symphonic M.D., to prolong usage of retinol and other skincare ingredient powerhouses was too exciting for him to pass up.

“It’s well established not only that there are receptors in the body for cannabinoids, but that specific cannabinoids can have an impact as anti-inflammatory and antibacterial agents. It became obvious that, if we could harness those for the treatment of common skin conditions where current therapies are limited by compliance because they cause irritation, inflammation or redness, that it could be beneficial,” says Leffell, lead dermatology advisor for Symphonic M.D. “The notion is not to lead with the CBD, but to develop a formulation that would survive in a topical skin product and would ameliorate the adverse effects or magnify and extend the beneficial effects of the agents.”

Symphonic M.D. is adamant it’s not a CBD brand. Rather, it’s an advanced skincare brand that includes CBD. “It’s suffered a great deal of skepticism because there was no validation, no rationale, and there was no systematic deployment of the compounds,” says Leffell, adding, “One of the challenges because of the history of CBD and skin products is to ensure that there’s credibility to the formulations, and it’s one of the reasons we’re not leading with CBD. You have to read the ingredients to see that there’s CBD in it. So, it’s not the flashing neon sign, and the reason for that is that it has a functional role, not a marketing role.”

Symphonic M.D.’s has developed a complex it calls BioA3, which features highly soluble CBD from the powder form of the hemp-derived ingredient, that’s intended to stave off skin aggravation prompted by potent ingredients like retinol and vitamin C. In its debut hero product, $82 Retinol :: Vitamin C Treatment, retinol and vitamin C are combined with BioA3 to counter acne while avoiding the harshness typical of many acne-fighting products. In an eight-week study of 33 13- to 33-year-olds conducted by KGL Skin Study Center, it was shown to reduce the appearance of blemishes, benefit skin texture, tone and evenness, and not instigate adverse reactions with twice-a-day application.

“Conventional wisdom would say you can’t use vitamin C at night, and you shouldn’t use retinol during the day, and you certainly can’t cocktail the two of them together,” says Cherry Robinson, founder and GM of Symphonic M.D. “Retinol and vitamin C are the two most effective active compounds. We’ve been able to incorporate them into a formula because of BioA3 complex that does contain cannabinoids in it to make it safe and to have no adverse reactions. You can use it twice a day, so morning and night to effectively treat not just blemishes, but scarring, discoloration and inflammation as well.”

“The consumer is far more educated now than they ever have been. They understand ingredients, they’re looking for validation, and it can’t come across as being contrived or condescending in any way.”

Retinol :: Vitamin C Treatment isn’t the only Symphonic M.D. product at the brand’s launch. It’s also releasing $39 Gluconic Acid :: Coconut PPL Complex Cleanser, a product without BioA3 designed to target rough skin, clogged pores and uneven tone. Acne-prone skin is only the start for Symphonic M.D., and its objective is to tackle a broad universe of skin concerns. Hyperpigmentation and signs of aging are up next. 6 Peptides :: Amino Acids, product addressing fine lines and wrinkles, and Brassica :: Pea Extract :: Red Algae :: Lactic AHC, a product combatting discoloration, are due out in late January. In the second quarter, three supplements are slated to hit the market tailored to acneic, aging and hyperpigmented skin.

Symphonic M.D. projects it could generate around $5 million in sales in its initial year of availability. Out of the gate, the brand will be sold in direct-to-consumer distribution and at doctors’ offices. Specialty retail is on its roadmap for as soon as 2024, and e-tailers and international markets are part of the plan, too. Armed with support from Intrinsic, Symphonic M.D. has already been making a strong digital advertising push. Robinson, former CEO at DCL Skincare, EVP and GM at Maison Berger Paris and managing director at Schwarzkopf Professional, suggests medical symposiums will be important for spreading Symphonic M.D.’s message, and it could eventually have its own retail concept to provide consumer education.

Symphonic M.D. teamed up with the agency Front Row to create a design that conveys its science-forward positioning through imagery with robotic arms and sciencey graphics on packaging. “Coming off of the last couple of years and the pandemic, science matters, and I think, as consumers, we’re going back to that we want things that are going to work. We’re looking for credibility,” says Robinson. “The consumer is far more educated now than they ever have been. They understand ingredients, they’re looking for validation, and it can’t come across as being contrived or condescending in any way.”

Symphonic M.D. has about 10 people on staff, according to Robinson, and it marks Intrinsic’s first beauty foray. The firm closed a $102 million growth equity fund in 2020. Among the companies in its portfolio are marijuana and alcohol breathalyzer specialist Hound Labs, supplements platform NextEvo Naturals, cannabis management software Treez, lab testing outfit Act Laboratories and synthetic cannabinoid ingredient supplier Nalu Bio.

Robinson underscores Intrinsic is taking a patient approach to building Symphonic M.D. “The investments that Intrinsic Capital Partners makes, they are it in for quite some time before they do look at spinning [them out],” she says. “So, where will we be over time? That’s not to say that, if a wonderful opportunity came along, of course, we would have that conversation, but, as you know, many brands are solely developed to be spun [out], and that’s not what we’ve done here.”