After An Overhaul, Natural Fine Fragrance Brand Sigil Scent Marries Mysticism And Sophistication

Sigil Scent is starting over.

Four years after introducing the natural perfume brand, founder Patrick Kelly has recreated it with a new look, new merchandise, new packaging and new distribution plan befitting the luxury positioning he intends it to have. The only remnant of its previous incarnation is the name Sigil Scent, which refers to a seal representing mystical forces and underscores the alchemical inspiration that informs Kelly’s perfumery.

“I’ve always loved old-world hermetic and alchemical traditions, but, at the beginning, I was a little bit afraid of pushing the gas pedal all the way down. I was nervous it would feel too esoteric for a broad customer base,” he says. “Between then and now, I’ve learned that you have to be true to your vision and not be afraid to spend to bring that vision to life.”

Sigil Scent’s revamp totaled $150,000, and Kelly points out hiring experts outside the brand to help shape it was, although expensive, important to steering it in the direction he hopes to take it. He hired design agency Grafikisto to help retool the aesthetics and Orden Beauty to orchestrate its retail expansion. Prior to those hires, wise words delivered by a fellow founder, Jen White of One Over One, during a trade show prompted Kelly to reexamine the state of his brand.

“I had never met her before and she told me, ‘Your fragrances smell amazing, but you need to improve your packaging.’ I remember being like, ‘Who are you?,’ but, at the same time, it was nice to meet someone who was brave enough to say that and tell me something I was already becoming aware of,” he recounts. “That was one of the critical impetuses in moving forward with the rebrand. It’s valuable to have other people weigh in rather than just being in your own echo chamber.”

“I’ve learned that you have to be true to your vision and not be afraid to spend to bring that vision to life.”

Sigil Scent’s packaging has indeed improved. Kelly turned to beauty packaging specialist WhipSmart for rigid paper boxes that have replaced folding cartons to elevate the brand. An Art Deco-esque logo on the bottles and boxes is a nod to Swedish filmmaker Ingmar Bergman, a Kelly obsession, and there’s also a secondary symbol of a vial with aroma rising from it. The symbol is etched into Sigil Scent’s magnetized zamac bottle cap and an indented shape mirroring the cap is on the lid of the boxes. Inside the boxes, a card communicates the stories of the fragrances.

“No matter how hard you try to sell, if your product presentation is not there, it’s not going to sell. The difference between the buyer reception and feedback at the level of prestige accounts we’re aiming for is night and day from before,” says Kelly. “If you look at these boxes and bottles on a shelf, what they tell the retailer and, ultimately, the customer is that this is a beautiful product you want to look at and hold. I think the first step for any fragrance brand is having something out there that stands out because there’s just so much in the market.”

What’s inside of the bottle, however, has to be on par with its outside. Self-taught perfumer Kelly has increased the sophistication of his fragrance formulations. They contain two to three handmade tinctures, essential oils, absolutes and CO2 extracts. The renovated Sigil Scent has four 30-ml. fragrances priced at $120.

“We are using between 20 and 30 different notes in each blend. Some synthetic fragrances have over 100. In naturals, the materials are very costly, and it can be quite an investment. I’m a small brand with no investors,” says Kelly. “The fact that we are able to launch this assortment that feels totally premium and has people scratching their heads over its complexity and long wear with the natural ingredients we use is a huge win.”

“No matter how hard you try to sell, if your product presentation is not there, it’s not going to sell. The difference between the buyer reception and feedback at the level of prestige accounts we’re aiming for is night and day from before.”

The lightest of the four fragrances is Solutio. Solutio means dissolution, and Kelly translated the concept to the fragrance by distilling resinous plant materials to their fundamental elements. Specifically, Solutio features a buoyant concoction of cypriol, labdanum, chaparral tincture and cypress notes. The deepest of the four fragrances is Anima Mundi. It’s fashioned to balance traditionally masculine and feminine fragrance accords to be a gender-neutral floral, and contains immortelle, hinoki, rose and jasmine notes.

The remaining fragrances are Amor Fati and Prima Materia. Kelly shares amor fati is the belief that good and bad experiences are essential to existence. In the fragrance, he sought to combine smoky and effervescent notes to embody challenges and triumphs. It includes galbanum, palo santo, opoponax, green pine needles and bergamot. Prima Materia connotes the formless root of matter. The chypre fragrance has vetiver, oakmoss, neroli and white sage notes. Kelly explains, “I wanted to make something in Prima Materia that was as celestial, sparkling and bright as it was really earthy, rich and dirty.”

For distribution, Kelly is targeting clean beauty retailers, department stores and upscale apparel destinations. Prior to its transformation, Sigil Scent was largely sold at small apothecaries and yoga studios. Kelly’s goal is for Sigil Scent to generate $350,000 to $500,000 in sales for the year following the release of its updated fragrance roster. “This product stands on its own as a premium product even without the clean aspect,” he says. “We are trying to broaden our scope.”