Has Fast Beauty Crashed?

Last month, the publication Women’s Wear Daily ran an article on “slow beauty,” putting a spotlight on brands such as Ffern, KraveBeauty, Minori Beauty and Dieux with intentional product drop strategies, sustainable missions and edited assortments.

We suspected that, beneath the front-facing marketing messages, values statements and product splashes, there are underlying pressures driving brands to slow their roll. Krupa Koestline, cosmetic chemist and founder of KKT Innovation Labs, confirmed our suspicions when, in a No Stupid Questions story we published recently about a decrease in the number of beauty product launches, she said, “Product development timelines are longer and launches have been more calculated.”

To delve further into the dynamics of slower beauty, for the latest edition of our ongoing series posing questions relevant to indie beauty, we asked Koestline and 15 other cosmetic chemists and manufacturing executives the following: Are you seeing product development timelines lengthen? What does a typical product development timeline look like today versus a few years ago? Do you think the beauty industry is seeing the end of fast beauty? 

Krupa Koestline Founder and Cosmetic Chemist, KKT Innovation Labs

I’ve noticed a shift toward a more calculated approach to product launches. Rather than rushing to market, brands are taking their time, strategically planning releases to stand out in an increasingly crowded space.

The focus has moved from flooding the market with rapid-fire launches to making a significant impact with fewer, more meaningful products. This contrasts sharply with the “fast beauty” mentality of the past, where speed was the main priority.

The recent slowdown in retail has also prompted many brands to rethink their launch strategies. With fewer consumers actively shopping, the cost of customer acquisition has increased significantly, forcing brands to spend more to gain attention.

As a result, the budget for a product launch looks very different now than it did a few years ago. It’s no longer just about developing a great product, it’s about investing heavily in marketing, content and outreach to cut through the noise and make a lasting impression.

Looking ahead, I expect brands will continue prioritizing long-term value over quick wins. Product development will likely involve more consumer testing, thoughtful ingredient sourcing, and sustainable practices. The result? Fewer launches, but ones that resonate more deeply with conscious consumers and have the necessary support to succeed in a crowded market.

Angella Sprauve Cosmetic Chemist and Clean Beauty Product Developer

I agree with Krupa Koestline’s observation that product development timelines are becoming longer and more calculated. There's been a noticeable shift from prioritizing the sheer number of launches to focusing on quality over quantity.

Brands are investing more time in research to deliver products that genuinely meet consumer needs, resulting in fewer, but more purposeful launches. This extended timeline allows for thorough development to ensure products are effective, safe, and aligned with evolving regulations and consumer expectations for high-quality ingredients and sustainable practices.

I believe that the fast beauty trend, while not disappearing, is evolving. There will always be a segment of consumers eager for the latest and most affordable products, and some brands are specifically structured to cater to that demand. With in-house manufacturing or access to private labeling, they can still bring products to market quickly. However, even within the fast beauty category, there's a growing emphasis on thoughtful execution, ensuring that products are not only trendy, but also functional and well-made.

Compared to five years ago, certain aspects of product development have indeed become more efficient, which can support faster timelines. For example, sourcing packaging has improved significantly with more suppliers and advancements in sustainable materials.

Additionally, innovations in raw materials have made it easier for brands to incorporate unique ingredients or deliver multifunctional benefits. As a result, development timelines can range from as short as 10 months for simpler projects to a couple of years for more complex, innovative launches.

In my view, the industry is striking a new balance between fast beauty and more intentional development. Even when brands aim for "quick" launches, there's a noticeable shift toward a more strategic approach, where products aren't just rushed out to follow trends, but are thoughtfully crafted to meet today’s evolving demands for efficacy, quality ingredients and ethical practices. This is not about simply keeping up anymore, it's about setting the trends with products that are built to last and make a meaningful impact.

Philip Miller Co-Founder, Product Society

Generally, I'd say yes, product development timelines are lengthening, but I think that's a good thing. Brands are becoming more aware that the quality and intentionality/authenticity of the product is equally as important as filling the pipeline.

Many brands we've worked with over the years have shifted from a very aggressive launch plan of releasing new products every month to fewer, more intentional quarterly releases. As competition and advertising costs continue to rise, we're seeing a clear trend among brands towards more strategic and thoughtful approaches to new product launches.

This shift seems to be a direct response to the changing market dynamics, with companies recognizing the need for careful planning and execution in their product development and marketing strategies. If you tie that approach together with increased regulatory scrutiny and sustainability efforts, we're definitely seeing that the product timelines for launch are longer.

I'd say five years aga, brands could bring a product from concept to shelf in as little as six to 12 months, especially for trend-driven "fast beauty" products that mirrored fast fashion.

Today, timelines have stretched to eight to 15 months for many of the brands we work with, particularly for more sophisticated formulations or brands that prioritize sustainability and regulatory compliance.

One key advantage we offer brands through our vertically integrated business model is not only to assist in product development /formulation, but also consider every step of the product life cycle including manufacturing and fulfilment. This holistic perspective allows us to navigate the extended timelines we're seeing in the industry and offer a streamline solution to our clients.
For the most part, I'd say the industry is shifting away from the "fast beauty" model that defined the past decade. Products are better thought out, more authentic and intentional.

However, the emergence of TikTok Shop feels like we're back to when Instagram first boomed. Speed to market seems extremely important for TikTok brands trying to take advantage of trends.

Tara Chacho SVP of Business Development, Cohere Beauty

With limited resources and rising customer acquisition costs, emerging brands are becoming more thoughtful and deliberate with new product launches. Mintel reported innovation is at its lowest in 10 years for the first half of 2024: Less than half (46%) of global beauty and personal care CPG launches are genuinely new products.

At Cohere Beauty, we have seen a handful of brands shift their focus from new product development and enlist our support to optimize supply chain costs, sustainability, performance of existing products or help them build products that address specific problem-solution needs for niche/underrepresented demographics.

Product development timelines are also lengthening as brands are spending more time upfront to conduct consumer research, whether through social listening, qualitative approaches like consumer focus groups or quantitative market research survey to learn what consumers want. This approach is a good thing as it will better inform product launches and minimize in market risk.

Brands are also spending more time conducting rigorous product testing before formula approval, a process than can easily extend timelines by six months-plus. To meet our brands' challenges, Cohere Beauty provides our customers more than just formulation and manufacturing expertise and can help our customers by providing advanced market and trend insights to inform their innovation pipeline build and ensure strategic launches.

Fred Khoury Founder and President, Above Rinaldi Labs

The lengthening of product development timelines is something the beauty industry has increasingly recognized, and we’re certainly experiencing it at Above Rinaldi Labs. While various factors drive this shift, the specifics can differ depending on a brand’s target market, product category and geographic focus.

A few key drivers behind this shift include tighter regulations, evolving consumer demands and a greater commitment to quality. In major markets like the U.S. and EU, regulatory scrutiny has intensified, placing greater emphasis on safety, ingredient transparency and sustainability. To comply with these evolving standards, brands must conduct more rigorous formulation testing and secure certifications such as cruelty-free and vegan.

Meanwhile, consumers are demanding clean, ethical beauty products. They want full transparency, sustainable practices and integrity in ingredients, which adds more steps to the R&D process. Brands are spending additional time vetting suppliers, exploring new materials and backing up their claims.

With high-performance, multifunctional products in demand, the testing phase has also become more comprehensive. Instead of rushing to market, brands are taking time to refine formulations, ensuring that when their products finally hit the shelves, they’re truly worth the wait.

Five to 10 years ago, beauty brands could fast-track a launch from concept to market in just six to nine months. Back then, speed was everything, especially with the rise of “fast beauty,” where rapid innovation and trend chasing ruled the industry. It was all about getting the next big thing out there as quickly as possible.

Today, those timelines have stretched to 12 to 18 months or even longer. This shift signals a new era where quality, performance and responsibility take center stage. Brands are being more intentional, with careful steps in formulation, thorough testing and thoughtful marketing strategies. Sustainability practices are no longer an afterthought, but a core part of the process, reflecting a more conscious and deliberate approach to bringing products to market.

While “fast beauty” hasn’t disappeared, there’s a clear shift towards "slow beauty," where products are crafted with thoughtfulness and attention to detail. The fast beauty era was all about rapid trends, influencer hype and a constant flow of new SKUs.

Now, brands are more focused on long-term innovation, creating products that address real needs rather than flooding the market with fleeting trends. Consumers are becoming savvier, demanding transparency and efficacy, which naturally slows down the traditional fast beauty cycle.

That said, we still see some "fast" product development, particularly for limited-edition collections or seasonal launches. Even here, though, brands are finding a balance between speed and responsibility. Overall, the industry is embracing a more sustainable pace, something we strongly believe at Above Rinaldi Labs benefits both consumers and the environment.

Oakley Matthews Director of Product Development, International Products Group

I think product development timelines are getting longer due to increased consumer demand for innovation, quality and sustainability. This shift is driven by a growing emphasis on performance, ingredient transparency, regulatory compliance (MoCRA), and the need for extensive testing to ensure safety and efficacy.

Over the past few years, more brands have focused on sustainability, which often requires more time to source eco-friendly materials and packaging solutions.

Rachel Johnson Founder and Cosmetic Chemist, The Charismatic Chemist

Product development timelines have doubled and, in some cases, tripled over the last cycle of launches. I know it is due to brand indecisiveness, lack of funding and improper allocation of capital.

Typical timelines for PD are 18 to 24 months from concept to launch. Some brands have recently confessed to three to seven years of research and development in order to launch.

The beauty industry has always been fast, and I don't think that will ever change. We should expect new approaches to stimulate business and strategy cultivation to create new products efficiently.

Megan Cox Founder, Genie Supply

Five years ago, savvy brands were still taking their time to develop the perfect products in line with current and potentially future beauty standards. Many of our clients worked on open retainers, tweaking products to perfection. Only during certain periods of spikes in the marketplace like the launch of CBD beauty were nascent brands impatiently pushing products down the pipeline.

When COVID hit, the thought of an open retainer for formulating was widely rejected. Clients wanted to keep up with the trends and push products out quickly, whether this was due to the ever-changing COVID environment, retail PD requirements (looking at you, Sephora) or the increasingly elusive attention economy, we'll never know. We crunched the PD cycle to as low as two months for clients in an effort to keep up.

Starting in late 2023, we began to see a swing back to pre-COVID timelines. Brands are now saying, "No rush," and "I want to take my time." They realize that VC money is tight, fast beauty is a bad bet and slow, organic growth with a strong business foundation is the best way to ensure success, which means making small bets and working directly with consumers pre- and post- launch, not iterating in a bubble and launching ASAP.

To enable this slow innovation and small bet strategy, we've been working with select brands to ensure creative and lowered cost, lowered risk paths to launch and post-launch success.

Angela Umelo Founder and CEO, Salt + Earth Labs

We have seen a rise in conscious consumption coupled with less obvious white space for brands. As key categories have become seemingly saturated, brands have to be more creative and intentional for new launches, but not necessarily take longer.

More established brands sold in retailers and multinationals have commonly had long PD timelines (18 to 24 months) but startup, self-funded indie beauty brands do not have this luxury. There was a time when it was a little easier as you could very quickly launch with a private-label eyeshadow palette or liquid lipsticks, but now that space has changed and consumption is lower.

We focus exclusively on the indie beauty space, and we have not seen an increase in PD timelines, but rather a shift towards more niche, specialist products and overlooked categories where there is still room for innovation.  We also facilitate the need for speed with formula and ingredient technology keeping development timelines within a standard of six to 12 months.

The key thing here is just clarity, brand differentiation and a targeted approach to the market.

Kyle LaFond Founder, Natural Contract Manufacturing and American Provenance

We are definitely seeing product development times lengthen. This is a trend that we've discussed throughout 2024.

I think that this is largely due to the availability of capital. Many investors have revisited their investment criteria and if a brand does not have a clear path to profitability, raising funds can be extremely challenging. Additionally, higher interest rates have made it increasingly difficult to secure traditional bank financing.

Launching a product has always been an exercise in uncertainty. Now, more than ever before, brands are doing the research and analysis to increase their odds of success. Because of this additional workload on the front end, launches are taking much longer. However, the launches that do occur are more likely to make both an immediate and lasting impact.

I think this is actually a very good thing for consumers. Gone are the days of celebrities and influencers selling poor quality products just once or twice to make a quick buck. Exceptional brands know that they can build a better business model on recurring sales with higher quality products.

Anthony Standifer Founding Partner and Chief Brand Architect, mSEED Group

I have not seen any major shifts in product development timelines for 2024 compared to recent years. At mSEED group, we've remained deeply committed to supporting underserved founders through custom formulation and small batch manufacturing. The demand for these services continues to grow as more entrepreneurs are seizing the opportunity to bring new beauty products to market.

For new formulations, we advise brand founders to plan for a six-to-nine month development period. This timeframe allows for the essential back-and-forth collaboration between our lab team and the founders, which is critical to crafting products that truly resonate with their target customers.

For those looking to expedite the process, we suggest considering private-label options, which offer ready-to-go formulations with minimal customization. While this can speed up time to market, developing a unique, custom product is a more involved journey, one that’s worth embracing. We encourage founders to plan their launch timelines accordingly, giving the process the time it needs to create something truly special.

Alexis Forbes-Moorehead Lead Formulation Chemist, Divinity Cosmetic Labs

I am definitely seeing product development timelines lengthen, and this is largely due to the increased competitiveness of the market and more discerning consumers. A few years ago, a typical product development timeline could range from six to 12 months, with brands moving quickly to launch products to capitalize on trends.

Today, however, it’s not unusual for timelines to extend to 18 months or even longer. This is because brands are now focusing more on how to stand out in a crowded marketplace and ensure their products meet the evolving demands of consumers.

One major factor contributing to this shift is the rise in consumer awareness and the need to combat misinformation in the beauty space. Consumers are more educated about ingredients, safety and efficacy, and they are scrutinizing labels more closely than ever before.

This has pushed brands to invest more time in robust R&D, clinical testing and transparent marketing to build trust. The process is no longer just about launching a product quickly, but about delivering a product that is well-researched and backed by science, which inherently lengthens development timelines.

I don’t see the complete end of fast beauty, but I do believe we’re witnessing a shift toward a more conscious version of it. Some brands are still able to quickly respond to trends, but they are doing so with more calculated strategies, ensuring their products are sustainable and safe.

Fast beauty may not disappear entirely as the demand for instant gratification still exists, but the quality and longevity of products are becoming more important. It’s a double-edged sword. The cup can be seen as half full, with brands rising to meet consumer expectations for transparency and sustainability, but also half empty as the industry grapples with balancing speed and integrity.

In today’s climate, product development is about striking that balance. Brands that focus solely on speed risk falling short in terms of efficacy or safety, while those that take the time to develop well-thought-out products are more likely to build long-lasting consumer loyalty.

Andrea Buratovich Brand Consultant and Co-Founder, Indigo Private Label and Caley Cosmetics

Our product development times have actually shortened. From the time we have all the components to work on a project, our lead time is two to six weeks. Clients who want to launch quickly are able to get products to market faster than ever. Others take months and even years testing a product and going back and forth with samples.

As for fast beauty, I think it’s going to stick around just like fast fashion. There is a place for it, unfortunately. There are always new trends. As long as TikTok is around, consumers are going to partake.

Nevertheless, I think consumers are more aware of the environmental impact of fast beauty products. Plus, once they’ve tried it, they realize the poor quality makes it a waste. Consumers appreciate when a product takes time to develop and the extensive testing that goes into to making sure it brings the utmost value.

Ananya Sharma Cosmetic Chemist, Next Step Laboratories

There is a noticeable trend toward longer product development timelines in the beauty industry, driven by several key factors. Increased regulatory scrutiny has arisen as consumers become more aware of ingredient safety and sustainability, compelling brands to meet stringent standards through extensive testing and compliance checks.

Additionally, today's informed and selective consumers demand high-quality products that fulfill their promises, necessitating more research and development, which naturally lengthens the process. Sustainability initiatives also contribute to this trend as brands strive to incorporate environmentally friendly ingredients and packaging, adding complexity to development.

Furthermore, market saturation compels brands to be more cautious, often leading them to conduct thorough market research and consumer testing before launching new products, resulting in a more calculated and extended development timeline.

The typical product development timeline in the beauty industry has evolved significantly over the past few years. Two to five years ago, many brands could develop and launch new products in as little as six months, allowing them to quickly seize on emerging trends and seasonal demands.

Today, however, that timeline has stretched to about 12 to 18 months or more. Brands are now dedicating more time to formulation, testing and crafting effective marketing strategies. This shift reflects a deeper commitment to creating products that not only resonate with current trends but also align with the broader values and expectations of today’s consumers.

While it might not be the absolute end of fast beauty, it is certainly evolving. Brands are recognizing that, while speed can capture initial interest, sustained success relies on building trust and delivering quality. The concept of "fast beauty" quickly churning out trend-driven products may become less viable as consumers prioritize longevity, efficacy and ethical considerations.

As a result, we may see a shift toward more intentional launches, with brands focusing on fewer, but more thoughtfully developed products. This could lead to a healthier beauty ecosystem where brands and consumers both benefit from well-researched, high-quality offerings. In essence, while quick launches might still occur, the overall industry trend seems to favor a more measured approach to product development.

Mary Ershadi VP of Marketing, AMR Laboratories

We don’t really see a big shift in timelines for development.  I believe brands are educating themselves more before coming to a CM.  By the time they are in a meeting with us, they have already done their research and know what they want and don’t want.

I also feel that today’s consumer is much better educated on skincare and ingredients than the consumer from 10 years ago. This saves a lot of time, which we would spend explaining ingredients.

Our typical timeline is four to six weeks for the first sample. AMR as a company will spend a lot of time understanding and communicating with the brand prior to the start of R&D. We don’t just take on a project and shoot in the dark.

We narrow down the brands expectation and wish list and make sure that the first sample presented gives them as close to 100% as possible. This is why our project timelines may be shorter than other labs.

Also, this is the reason most of our samples are approved on the first round and go to production. A good understanding of the brand, their mission and current trends all melt together to provide a high-quality product in a timely fashion.

Flavia Zhamo

Founder, EC Studios and Everyday Chemist

Product development timelines are lengthening due to increased MoCRA regulations and a more knowledgeable consumer base. We’re seeing the death of private-label products as consumers become frustrated with repetitive formulas in new packaging. Brands must now be more mindful of their formulas, feedback and testing, which has led to a rise in popularity of formulation labs like EC Studios and Above Rinaldi.

To stay competitive, manufacturing companies will need to hire expert R&D teams. I foresee formulation labs evolving into TMPs, much like Above Rinaldi, which has successfully transitioned from a formulation lab to a manufacturer.

In the past, brands could launch products in just a few months by tweaking off-the-shelf formulas. However, true custom development now takes about a year, including safety testing and specific ingredient sourcing. Ingredient lead times are longer and creating innovative products requires extensive lab time, all driven by increasing consumer expectations.

As someone who struggles with skin issues, I look forward to the end of fast beauty. I want products that have undergone at least a year of development. While trends may continue to bring fast beauty products in and out, advancements in technology may help shorten development times without compromising quality. Brands that prioritize effective formulations and meet consumer needs will ultimately succeed.

If you have a question you’d like Beauty Independent to ask cosmetic chemists and manufacturing executives, please send it to editor@beautyindependent.com.