Inclusive Beauty Brands Share Their Vision For Thirteen Lune’s Post-Acquisition Future

Thirteen Lune, the retailer launched in 2020 by Nyakio Grieco and Patrick Herning to showcase minority-owned beauty brands, has been acquired by SNR Capital, a financing and fulfillment firm associated with The PCA Companies, a global distributor, logistics, e-commerce and licensing company, through an insolvency process that’s an alternative to bankruptcy called “assignment for the benefit of creditors.” The acquisition, first reported by publication Women’s Wear Daily, comes after a challenging period for Thirteen Lune that saw its shop-in-shop relationship with J.C. Penney restructured and delays in vendor payments last year.

At a moment when Black-owned beauty brands’ retail progress has slipped, Thirteen Lune’s future under new ownership and continued dedication to diverse brands could be particularly significant for the fate of inclusive beauty. Looking ahead at what that future could hold, for this edition of our ongoing series posing questions relevant to indie beauty, we asked 12 founders of brands Thirteen Lune has carried the following: What vision do you hope SNR Capital has for Thirteen Lune? What steps do you think it should take to realize that vision in the short and long term?

Ezinne Iroanya-Price Founder, Sknmuse

Thirteen Lune has been more than just a safe haven for brands like mine—it's been a masterclass in resilience. Sure, they've had their stumbles, but they've also knocked it out of the park in ways that matter. Opening their doors for our events and creating retail partnerships for Black-owned brands? They dared to do something different, and I'll forever appreciate how they validated our entire sector.

Let me keep it real with you—this market is laughably fake! Everyone's chasing the "Black-owned brand" aesthetic, but heaven forbid they put in the work to understand our cultural linguistics and sacred rituals. They want the shiny packaging of Black beauty without grasping its soul, the revolutionary act of choosing ease and rest over relentless capitalism!

So, to finally answer your question (took me a minute, right?), I hope whoever's next really gets what Thirteen Lune was cooking up. That flagship store needs to be a sanctuary of ease, a showcase celebrating the incredible journeys of our diverse founders!

Celebrity brands are cute and all, but the market is starving for substance. They've struck gold with the Thirteen Lune brands. Now, let's see if they're wise enough to recognize the cultural richness in their hands.

KeNisha Ruff Founder and Creative Director, Marie Hunter Beauty

As one of the original 13 brands to launch on Thirteen Lune in 2020, Marie Hunter Beauty has witnessed the platform's incredible efforts to champion diverse voices in the beauty industry. The acquisition by SNR Capital presents an exciting opportunity to reinforce Thirteen Lune’s mission of fostering inclusivity and supporting underrepresented brands. I’m hopeful that under this new ownership, the platform can solidify its financial foundation while expanding its reach to consumers eager to discover high-quality, diverse beauty products.

In the short term, I believe the focus should be on strengthening vendor relationships by ensuring timely payments and transparent communication. Many of the brands on the platform are smaller businesses like ours that rely heavily on these partnerships to grow. Rebuilding trust and maintaining open dialogue will be critical to Thirteen Lune's success moving forward with its brand partners. Additionally, enhanced marketing efforts that highlight the stories behind the brands will help amplify our voices and connect more deeply with customers.

Looking to the future, I hope to see Thirteen Lune expand its accessibility by increasing its online and physical retail presence. The platform has the potential to become synonymous with inclusive beauty on a larger scale, and broadening its touch points with consumers will play a key role in achieving that. I would also love to see the launch of educational initiatives that bring attention to the importance of supporting diverse beauty brands. This would not only inform customers but also strengthen their connection to Thirteen Lune's mission.

Thirteen Lune has been a trailblazer in redefining beauty standards and elevating underrepresented voices in the industry. With a thoughtful, mission-aligned approach, I’m optimistic that it can continue to pave the way for true inclusivity in beauty under its new ownership.

Dionne Phillips Founder, D’Lashes

As the founder of D’Lashes, a Black-owned beauty brand that has pioneered natural-looking lashes and served diverse communities and A-list celebrities for decades, I have mixed emotions about the future of Thirteen Lune under its new ownership.

While I am cautiously hopeful, I can’t ignore the disappointment of how the old leadership treated Black brands. The previous founder’s approach leaned heavily on optics. Simply having Black brands on the shelf wasn’t enough. There was no real effort to tell the stories behind our products, to showcase the innovation and excellence we bring or to market us with the same energy given to larger, celebrity-backed brands like Goop or Pattern.

What’s disheartening is that we, as Black beauty brands, have been trailblazing in this industry for decades. Our work is innovative, our dedication to our customers unmatched, and yet we are often overlooked because we don’t have the same resources for operations, marketing or the latest trends in consumer engagement. Black women spend more than $7.5 billion annually on beauty products, outspending all other demographics.

And, yet, instead of recognizing our economic power and cultural influence, we’re often relegated to the back of the store both literally and figuratively. It feels like history repeating itself.

Let’s be honest—Larchmont Village was never the right location to attract Black customers or create accessibility for the very communities these brands serve. It unintentionally sent a message with the choice of Larchmont Village as a flagship location was another glaring oversight.

It’s an area that doesn’t naturally attract Black consumers or reflect the communities most of these brands serve. Location is key in retail, and Larchmont sent a subtle message that Black customers weren’t prioritized. Black women do spend on beauty, we’re not the problem. The problem is a lack of strategy to truly engage and reach us.

As a Black beauty brand founder, I want to see the new ownership invest in us the way they invest in big, celebrity-backed brands. Show us with action, not just words. Market our products with high energy, create campaigns that highlight our stories and find innovative ways to connect with customers who might not know about brands like ours. Use the latest tools—social media storytelling, experiential marketing, influencer collaborations—and place brands like D’Lashes front and center.

This is about more than Black brands, it’s about supporting all brands with a true mission, brands that represent real innovation and dedication to consumers. We need equitable opportunities to thrive, not just to survive. If Thirteen Lune wants to be a leader in inclusive beauty, it has to put in the work. No more relying on outdated strategies or expecting consumers to do the heavy lifting.

I hope the new owners truly see us—our innovation, our excellence and the communities we’ve served for decades. I hope they recognize that we’re more than just a label. We’re the backbone of this industry, and we deserve to be treated as such. It’s time for a bold, robust push that puts all brands on equal footing, uplifts small businesses and finally makes inclusive beauty more than just a tagline.

Ana Soriano Founder, Four Truffles

Thirteen Lune has been a significant platform for showcasing diverse beauty brands, and its mission resonates deeply with Four Truffles and our commitment to inclusivity. However, as one of the best-performing brands in their retail space, I believe there is room for growth in how they support their partners. My vision for SNR Capital’s stewardship of Thirteen Lune includes a commitment to creating equitable partnerships where all brands, especially those representing underrepresented communities, feel truly valued and supported.

In the short term, I hope to see SNR Capital invest in strengthening Thirteen Lune’s marketing infrastructure to amplify the voices of its brand partners, ensuring each brand receives the visibility it deserves. This includes leveraging key cultural moments such as Asian Heritage Month to highlight the contributions of diverse founders across all categories. It also means providing transparent communication, timely vendor payments and accessible opportunities for collaboration.

Long term, I envision Thirteen Lune evolving into a hub for innovation and inclusivity, where every brand feels they are part of a thriving, supportive ecosystem. This could be achieved through dedicated brand mentorship programs, co-branded marketing campaigns and a genuine celebration of diversity, not just in words, but in action.

As a founder of an Asian/Filipino-owned brand, I am optimistic about what the future holds under SNR Capital’s leadership. With a renewed focus on collaboration and fairness, Thirteen Lune can continue to lead the charge in redefining inclusive beauty.

Hannah Choi Co-Founder and CEO, Baby Tress

As a founder of a minority-owned beauty brand and a Thirteen Lune vendor, my vision centers on SNR Capital transforming Thirteen Lune from merely a curator of minority-owned brands into a true architect of luxury beauty experiences. The key to Thirteen Lune's future success lies not just in showcasing diverse brands, but in creating a distinctive retail environment that offers what mass retailers like Sephora and Ulta cannot.

In the short term, SNR Capital should focus on:

  1. Refining Thirteen Lune's value proposition beyond the "minority-owned" categorization. While representation matters deeply, luxury consumers need compelling reasons to choose Thirteen Lune over established retailers. This could mean developing exclusive product launches with partner brands, creating immersive shopping experiences that tell the authentic stories behind each brand and offering personalized beauty consultations that specifically address the needs of their target demographic.
  2. Strengthening vendor relationships through reliable payment systems and transparent communication. As a former vendor, I understand that consistent cash flow is crucial for emerging brands. Building trust with brands will ensure Thirteen Lune can maintain relationships with the most innovative minority-owned beauty companies.

Long-term success can look like:

  1. Investing in a digital infrastructure that delivers personalized shopping experiences and storytelling at scale. While Thirteen Lune may not match the marketing budgets of larger retailers, they can leverage their intimate knowledge of their customer base to create more meaningful connections.
  2. Developing an incubator program that helps emerging minority-owned brands scale successfully. This would position Thirteen Lune as not just a retailer, but a true partner in building the next generation of beauty brands.
  3. Creating a community platform that goes beyond traditional retail. This could include masterclasses with founder-led brands, exclusive events and content that speaks to the sophisticated beauty consumer who values both innovation and authenticity.

I hope to see Thirteen Lune evolve into a destination that doesn't compete with mass retailers on their terms, but instead creates its own category in luxury beauty retail, one that combines curation, education and community in a way that resonates deeply with its target market.

Alex Pottash Founder and CEO, Forgotten Skincare

As a founder who built a brand addressing a clear market need, specifically developing products for skin concerns like armpit hyperpigmentation, I have a unique perspective on what I hope to see from SNR Capital's vision for Thirteen Lune.

From the start, my company was built on inclusive imagery and constant customer feedback. I'd want SNR to maintain this same approach. They should create real feedback loops with their brands and customers rather than taking a top-down approach.

I want to see them take calculated risks on small brands with big ideas, especially when there are clear market signals showing growth potential in that category. But they need to go beyond just placing orders on consignment, which honestly doesn't help brands meaningfully grow.

Looking ahead, they should launch an incubator program that provides real operational support alongside funding. Their growth strategy needs to prioritize supporting diverse founders while building a sustainable business. And I'd love to see them create mentorship opportunities where more established brands can guide newer ones.

Most importantly, they should establish a program where brands can make a case for marketing support and actually receive meaningful budget to execute their vision. This kind of true partnership approach rather than just a basic buyer-seller relationship is what will help emerging brands truly succeed in this space.

Nicole Rose Founder, Ella Dean

My retail partnership with Thirteen Lune was an exciting opportunity for me. I appreciated Nyakio for developing an e-commerce platform for Black and brown beauty founders. My partnership increased brand awareness and opened the doors for my brand to be seen and heard, especially as a Black beautypreneur.

My hope for SNR Capital is that they continue to honor Thirteen Lune's mission and values by celebrating diversity, but also actively drive systemic change in how beauty products by Black-owned and other underrepresented brands are valued and represented in the retail landscape. I strongly believe Thirteen Lune has the potential to become the gold standard for inclusive beauty, demonstrating that prioritizing diversity isn’t just socially impactful but also a lucrative and sustainable business strategy.

Now that Thirteen Lune was acquired by SNR Capital, for short-term steps, they should focus on strengthening their brand awareness by investing in marketing campaigns that educate consumers on the importance of diversity and the unique stories behind the brands Thirteen Lune represents. Optimize retail partnerships by partnering with established retailers to increase shelf space and visibility. And focus on building a stronger community.

As for long-term steps, creating a global expansion strategy would benefit the brands Thirteen Lune represents. It will introduce them to international markets where diverse beauty is underrepresented. Also, Thirteen Lune should be leveraging consumer insights and sales data to demonstrate the economic potential of inclusive beauty, influencing retailers and investors to prioritize diversity, and partnering with industry leaders to implement long-term changes in representation, funding and retail practices.

I am hoping SNR Capital and Thirteen Lune will redefine what it means to be a beauty platform and continue to focus on diversity and inclusivity especially when amplifying underrepresented voices, supporting emerging Black and Brown brands and ensuring equitable access to retail opportunities in the beauty industry.

RaeDawn Johnson Founder, Balaeyon

Thirteen Lune has been a leader in amplifying diverse founders and this acquisition marks a new chapter in its mission. As a founder within the Thirteen Lune platform, I envision this partnership shining a brighter spotlight on BIPOC brands, showcasing their inclusivity and excellence to a global audience. With the change in leadership, I hope for stronger communication that fosters collaboration as Balaeyon as well as the other brands continue to grow and expand our offerings.

Thirteen Lune is the Sephora and Ulta for indie brands, delivering innovative, top-tier products. Now, we need a stronger platform to amplify the incredible quality we provide.

How To Realize This Vision:

  1. Educate customers about each brand’s unique story and standout offerings.
  2. Highlight why our products, loved by communities and praised for results, deserve even greater recognition.
  3. Inspire bold investor support by showcasing our proven value, quality and impact.
Calvin Quallis Founder, Scotch Porter

Thirteen Lune has been a vital platform for celebrating and elevating minority-owned beauty brands. Their work is so important for fostering inclusivity and representation in our industry. Under SNR Capital’s new ownership, I hope Thirteen Lune continues to build on its foundational mission of amplifying diverse voices and creating equitable opportunities for beauty brands.

In the short term, I hope they focus on building robust partnerships with their brands and fostering community engagement. Ensuring brands feel supported and celebrated, whether through collaborative marketing efforts or exclusive events, will be pivotal.

Looking ahead, I’d love to see them further define their position as leaders in inclusive beauty by innovating how consumers discover and interact with these incredible brands. Expanding their educational content to highlight the stories behind the brands and creating more opportunities for brand visibility—both online and offline—could strengthen their impact for years to come.

Dillon Pena Founder, Leland Francis

I hope SNR Capital sees Thirteen Lune as a leader in redefining inclusive beauty, an ecosystem where minority-owned beauty brands can thrive and expand. With PCA Companies being a minority-owned venture, I believe the vision should go beyond representation to focus on sustainable growth, authentic storytelling and building long-term equity for diverse entrepreneurs. By returning to Thirteen Lune’s original mission of supporting BIPOC Brands and founders, it can set a new industry standard for equity in beauty retail.

In the short term, Thirteen Lune should return to its roots by focusing on highlighting and promoting BIPOC-founded brands while ensuring its appeal extends to all consumers. By positioning its offerings as universally relevant and desirable, the company can broaden its customer base without losing sight of its core mission.

It is also essential to rebuild trust with vendors by resolving any outstanding payments and ensuring future transactions are handled promptly and efficiently. Additionally, revitalizing Thirteen Lune’s digital and in-store presence with campaigns that celebrate the unique stories of the brands it represents will help strengthen its community impact and consumer connection.

In the long term, the company should establish a brand incubation program to provide guidance, mentorship, and expertise for emerging minority-owned brands, fostering sustainable growth and innovation. Leveraging PCA Companies’ global network, Thirteen Lune can expand its locations and introduce its brands to international markets, amplifying the voices of diverse founders on a larger scale.

August Alsina Founder, Encina Wellness

Nyakio Grieco and her team created a conversation about Black-owned business that the beauty world needed to start having. As a person of color who has self-funded my brand, Encina Wellness, the inclusion in this community and assortment was affirming and important.

SNR capital has made the right choice to keep Nyakio at the helm, and it is my hope that this will be a long-term plan. You lose the founder, and you lose a central part of the vision. Communication to our vendor and expanded community will be the key to keeping Thirteen Lune moving forward.

Gabriela Navejas Co-Founder and CEO, Madame Gabriela Beauty

I certainly hope the vision remains intact and the support for minority brands is still a strong focus. At the moment, I understand that SNR is going through a discovery phase, learning about the current situation of brands and they financial standing with Thirteen Lune.

Once SNR gets a better picture of the brands that are part of this project, we will then see if the strategy is to consider the continuation of Black and brown founders support. It is too early to tell in my opinion.

If you have a question you’d like Beauty Independent to ask beauty brand founders, please send it to editor@beautyindependent.com.