Sepai Laboratories founder Paola Gugliotta literally grew up in a lab watching and assisting her molecular biologist mother. She’s since taken the pipette into her own hands and founded a trio of skincare brands: the romantic and aromatherapeutic APoEM, DNA-customized Gen Decode and advanced anti-aging resource Sepai. Beauty Independent spoke with Elena Peralta Garcia, business development director at Sepai Laboratories, about executing three brand strategies simultaneously, selling an 1,800 euro beauty regimen, expanding to the U.S. market and the stateside retailers each of the brands belongs in.
How did the company come about?
Paola worked in business and marketing for several cosmetics companies, and she became tired of seeing companies promise things to consumers that were not true or come up with needs for the consumer that are not real needs. She decided to make her own brand that would be honest [and] effective. Sepai was born in 2009. Sepai wants to offer real results and benefits, not only in the short term, but also the long term. We always say, “If you care how your skin will look in 10, 15 years, this is the brand that you need to use.”
Another very important thing about Sepai is, we understand that each and every consumer is different. We have products that are multitasking, but most of these products can [also] be personalized by boosters. We have series specific face and body boosters to personalize the formulas, for example a whitening booster [for age spots], a firming booster, even a tan prolonging booster. Plus they are super simple to use, they just need to be mixed once with the chosen product.
How did the Gen Decode brand come to be?
Since customization is key for us, we went one step further to create a treatment that is 100% customized. What we do is create a routine for the customer that is totally made just for them. We take a DNA sample with a cotton swab and send it to the lab, to analyze. Based on this DNA information, we create a specific line of products. We also add the preferences of the consumer. For example, the [scents] that they prefer. We also do an assessment. The person that [takes] the cotton swab will indicate “[the customer] is worried about the wrinkles she has around her lips, but what is more worrisome is the fact that she has tightness.” We do the DNA test, the visual assessment and a complete questionnaire to understand the habits and the background of this person. We put all of this together and create the products.
We have different [product] packages: One that is just serum and a cream, another one that is wider, where we include the eye contour and an exfoliant product, and another that is eight products. The products are marked with [the customer’s] name and the steps, one, two and so on. The customer also receive the study of the information that has been obtained [and] many recommendations, not only for skincare, but also for lifestyle. [Gen Decode] is also a very good tool for dermatologists with patients that have tried a million things that don’t work. This is the perfect way to analyze the skin to know what is causing [the issue]. It’s a cascade, a path. We go down to the origin of what’s causing everything, and we improve it.
We’re not only dealing with the physical signs of aging. For example, in my case, I can have wrinkles around my eyes, but I know in my DNA I have the tendency from my mother to have sagginess. [Gen Decode] is the perfect way of advancing and getting the skin ready for what should come. It’s something very unique.
The third brand, APoEM, seems very different from the other two. Why was it created?
APoEM was a very personal project. Paola, our founder, whenever she’s stressed, so goes and formulates. She formulates everything they have in their house. They don’t purchase anything, from cream to shampoo to detergent, nothing. With APoEM, she started formulating products for herself, for her kids. She has three boys. One is a baby. For their delicate skin, she was creating all these products. She started to [think], “Why don’t I make something out of this?” For her, it was like a retreat to go back to her memories of aromas, and this is how APoEM was born.
It was just launched the beginning of [2017]. It’s very new. It is not only a skincare brand. We use aromatherapy. With the essential oils, we want to create a mindfulness benefit for the consumer to try to transport them like Paola does when she’s formulating these products and she goes back to her memories. It creates an energy in her to help her fight things that are not going so well or gives her happiness because it reminds her of something. This is what we try to do with the consumer. Through this aromatherapy, we want to be able to take them back to sensations that will help them to create balance in their day to day. Also, we work with aromatherapy to provide healing to the skin.
How much did it cost to launch the brands? Was outside investment raised?
The initial investment was of 500,000 euros. It’s a family-owned company with some external investment.
Where are the products carried currently?
Since the brands are so different, the retail channels are totally different. Sepai is sold in very select perfumaries. [Where it’s sold] is not only a matter of pricing. It’s very important when we choose the retail doors to make sure that the person [selling] has the qualifications and the knowledge to be able to recommend a brand that is as complex as Sepai. We can also sell at some pharmacies that have very qualified personnel [who] are very devoted to cosmetics. We also sell it in department stores. We’re selling in Ludwig Beck in München [and] in Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong. Sepai is also in hotel spas [and] urban spas. We’re in the spa in the Mandarin in München. We’re in a very special spa in Barcelona called Saurina, whose personnel is very well qualified. We’re also in the spa in the Ritz in the Canary Islands.
With Gen Decode, it’s complex. The prices range, for the complete treatment, including the test, from about 1,000 to 1,800 euros. There are many people who are interested in doing this, but it’s also very specific. What we’ve seen that works very well is the medical spa. They have customers that have special needs, and this is a tool for them. Also, [the brand is] in perfumaries or pharmacies that are already working with Sepai. They understand Sepai, and they have a few specific customers who are the perfect match for Gen Decode. We also see collaborations with department stores where they can offer this as a special routine to their VIP customers.
APoEM is sold in concept stores and decor stores. It can also be sold in perfumaries and pharmacies that have a special area devoted to natural, organic brands.
What is the price range for APoEM?
An APoEM serum or cream is a little bit below 50 euros.
The brands are not yet launched in the U.S. Who are your target U.S. retail partners for the brands?
When I joined the company, the U.S. market was one of my priorities. One of the main tools that we saw was to use Indie [Beauty Expo]. So Indie [Beauty Expo] will be our first step in the U.S. Right now, we searching for possible partners [in the U.S.] that can help us. The first time we set foot [in the U.S.] will be in the show. It’s a very important time for us, and we’re very excited to see how it goes. I think we will see the acceptance of the brands once we’re there. It’s the perfect place to see how the brands fit in the market. We want to have everything ready to act if things go well at the show.
For APoEM, we want to be in the natural stores like Credo. We can also see it in perfumeries, concept stores and pharmacies, but we want to see if being in perfumaries would be a problem, if [it] could harm the entrance into stores [like Credo]. To us, the ideal place for APoEM are beautiful stores.
For Sepai, we see it in high-end perfumaries and department stores. With Gen Decode, [the U.S. launch] is actually something that we have on hold, but I see with the partners that we are contacting, a lot of people are interested in Gen Decode, so maybe we will start sooner than we thought.
What U.S. department stores are on the top of your list for Sepai?
Neiman Marcus or Barneys New York. Barneys would be a dream for us.
Pretend we are a buyer from Barneys. Why should Barneys carry Sepai?
Sepai is a different path to beauty. We re-educate the skin’s longevity. We have very effective, natural, safe and customizable beauticeuticals. Based on our unique method, our actives will act as a cellular trainer for the skin by following a very specific biological path the target the causes of aging while improving the results of the skin both in the short and long term. We are trying to educate the cells to act as if they are young again.
How many employees are there across the three brands?
We are not even 20. We are quite a small company, a team of perfectionists, growing very fast.
What are the hero products from each brand?
For Sepai, the core of the brand is the Recovery Range. These are the complete multitasking formulas to which we add the boosters. From these products, the booster is a bestseller. In the Flawless Range, we have Flawless Immaculate moisturizer with SPF 15 that treats age spots. Then, we have a range of elixirs with two products for the eye contour. The two eye serums – Depuff and Light Circle – are incredible. If you give them to someone who has that specific problem, from that day on, they love you.
For APoEM, the Replenish Body Oil is one of our bestsellers. We also have the Detox Wash that smells amazing. My favorite is the Body Gel, which has an amazing texture.
If you could get the products into anyone’s hands, who would it be?
For Sepai, Jacqueline Onassis. For Gen Decode, Robert Redford. For Apoem, Michelle Obama.
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